Let the fresh air in, but don't let the rotting bugs in.

John F. Kennedy | posted 5:30 PM, May 22, 2019

When I was in high school, I threw a Beanie Baby at a friend in a twisted dodgeball. He avoided, the floppy collection blew through the window screens and fell softly on the lawn. His parents paid a sum of money to repair the screen, but you don't have to do this. You can do it yourself.

Repairing the screen is one of the simpler DIY home repair projects, which usually takes less than 10 minutes, even if you don't know the spline roller of a screwdriver. Most screens use fiberglass or aluminum screens and are held in place by things called splines: rubber cords or metal sheets. When you are trying to repair, I suggest you buy a fiberglass screen because it is easier to use, but this guide will cover everything.

When buying gauze, be sure to buy a roll that is a little larger than the frame. For example, if you have a 32-inch wide screen frame, you want your screen to be at least 34 inches wide. Trust me, using materials that barely fit the frame is enough to make you want to throw the whole thing in the trash can. Prices vary by size and quantity, but you can get a 25-foot 36-inch screen for 20 to 25 dollars.

Before starting, assess the damage. Is there a big tear, or damage along the frame? Replace the screen completely. However, if you are looking at a tear that is one or two inches long and want a quick and easy repair rather than a perfect screen, just repair it.

I bought a pack of seven 2 x 2 inch aluminum patches at The Home Depot for $3. It took some trouble to install one because I tried to pass the two longer wires of its four sides through the screen and flatten it on the other side. Tricky, but it got the job done.

I find it easier to simply attach the adhesive fiberglass patch, but for only $3 to $10, you can pay for the convenience. Some patches are self-adhesive; just peel them off and apply them. Others, such as the ScreenMend patch I bought, ($7 per pair at Home Depot) require a hair dryer to set the glue. After blasting it at close range for a minute or two, the 5 x 7 inch mesh is safe. If there is any loose screen floating, be sure to remove it or press it on the adhesive patch, otherwise the fixing device will not stick properly.

So you decide to fix the whole thing. OK. Take a closer look at the frame. See the narrow groove that looks like a rope? That string thing is called a spline, and it came out. Use a screwdriver to pry it out of the channel. Start where the spline ends-usually around the corner. Once you start, the rest should be easy to emerge. Just pull it up. When finished, remove the damaged screen. Feel free to use a wet paper towel to wipe off any dirt on the frame.

If the spline is still soft and not cracked or brittle, you can reuse it. If in doubt, please replace it. It will hold your screen in place, so you want it to be sturdy. Take a piece to the hardware store or measure its diameter so you know what size to buy. A roll of 100 feet costs less than $10. But keep in mind that if you use a screen that is thicker or thinner than the old material, you may need to adjust the size of the splines.

When you are ready, roll the screen onto the frame, leaving a few inches of overhang on each end, and then cut it off to prevent scrolling.

Starting from any corner, use your fingers to press the spline into the groove. I recommend working on the short side of the screen first. After positioning the spline, use the concave wheel on the spline roller to slowly press the spline into the frame, and stretch it slightly in front of the tool to prevent it from bunching. You can cut the spline when you reach the corner, but using a spline around the frame makes it easier to reuse in the future.

If you do not have a spline roller, please purchase one. A sturdy one made of wood and metal costs less than $10 and is good value for money.

"Can you do it with a screwdriver and your fingers? Of course. But you will inevitably slip off and damage the screen or get frustrated," said Lou Manfredini, a family expert at Ace Hardware.

When you reach the last side, make sure that the screen has no ripples, and pull it tight when installing the last spline. However, do not pull too tightly, otherwise the frame may be bent. Aligning the frame with a corner of the workbench will help ensure that it stays straight. If you find any mesh deformation, remove enough splines to correct the problem, smooth it, and continue working.

Once you have installed the last spline, use your knife to cut off the excess. Then trim the screen, keeping the knife at a 45-degree angle and point away from the center of the screen. Take it easy. You don't want to slip and cut a new screen.

If you don't see the rubber band on the screen, but you do see a thin metal piece, then you have a metal spline. Your job becomes more difficult because most metal spine screens are not designed for home repairs. But don't worry. With a little practice, you will understand.

Start with the thinnest screwdriver you can find. Choose a corner, slide the tool into the channel, and gently pry a spline from one end. After lifting it a few inches, replace the screwdriver with a putty knife. do not have it? Any thin and strong hard plastic will do. Metal tools such as a spudger or chisel can also be used, but you may scratch the frame.

After placing the tool, hold the raised end of the spline with one hand as close to the frame as possible (this is important because it prevents the spline from bending), and then slowly slide the putty knife down the length of the spline horizontally . You are trying to remove the spline without excessive bending, so you can't pull it out like a rubber spline. If you do this, it will curl and you must replace it. Keep it relatively straight, you should be able to straighten it with your hands.

After removing all four spline parts, if necessary, remove the screen and clean the frame. Unfold a new screen on the frame, cut the reel open, and place a small section of spline in place. Tap it lightly with your hammer or mallet, and then tap it harder and harder to secure it. Putting a piece of scrap wood between your hammer and the frame can reduce the dent, but I hit the spline directly and found no damage.

It is important to note that the metal spline does not seem to hold the fiberglass screen as tightly as the rubber spline, and when I tried to pull it tighter, I bend the screen frame. Your screen may be a bit loose, but it can still prevent errors. If you really don't want to deal with metal splines, you can use the instructions above to replace it with rubber splines, but finding some large enough can be tricky.

After the spline is in place, trim the screen, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle, and point the back to the center of the screen. Take it easy. Don't slice your new screen.

It is difficult to use aluminum screens. Even professionals don't like to do this. If you bend the grid, you either have to endure a blocky screen or start over. If you are a gamer, this is the "hard mode". In other words, aluminum is stronger than fiberglass, which makes it more resistant to children and pets. If you are worried that even a sturdy fiberglass mesh designed to fight neurotic dogs will not be competent, then aluminum is worth considering.

If you decide to use aluminum, follow the above method to remove rubber or metal splines and damaged meshes. Scroll the new screen onto the frame while keeping the natural curve of the grid upward, like a dome on the frame. When you cut it off the roll with a utility knife, this will help prevent it from rolling up immediately.

Use the cam on the spline roller to gently press the screen into the groove of the frame. Depending on the depth of the passage, you may need to pass multiple times. Be gentle; press too hard, you may tear the mesh. Keep the screen taut while walking; once you roll it into the frame, you can't undo it.

Work one side at a time and install your splines. I recommend using rubber materials, although metal splines are better than fiberglass in terms of aluminum shielding. Then, use the concave wheel to press the tubing into the channel. If you must use a metal spline, use a hammer or rubber mallet to drive it into place, as described above.

After installing the spline, trim the screen and enjoy your achievements. And don't let children throw Doudou babies into the house.

John Kennedy is the DIY editor of PopSci. He had previously reported on legal news for Law360, and before that, he had reported on local news in the Journal Inquirer in Connecticut. He also built and remodeled houses, served as a fencing instructor, and shelved books in the library. When he is not taking things apart or reassembling them, he is exercising, cooking, baking or immersing himself in video games. Contact the author here.

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